Hand Planes Explained: What to Buy First and Why
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πͺDisclaimer: This article is for informational purposes only. Woodworking carries injury risks β from circular saws and table saws to lathes and routers. Always wear PPE (safety glasses, hearing protection, dust mask), follow manufacturer safety guidelines, keep tools clean and sharp, and never operate machinery when fatigued or distracted. Push sticks, blade guards, and proper grain orientation reduce kickback risk significantly.
Hand planes intimidate a lot of new woodworkers. There are dozens of types, sizes, and numbers, and everyone online seems to have a different opinion about which one you should buy first. Let me cut through the noise and give you a practical starting point.
What Does a Hand Plane Actually Do?
At its core, a hand plane shaves thin ribbons of wood from a surface. That is it. The magic is in how precisely it does this. A well-tuned plane produces a surface smoother than sandpaper can achieve, and it does it faster on large surfaces. Planes flatten boards, straighten edges, chamfer corners, and trim joints to fit.
The Main Types You Need to Know
Stanley 12-905 Bailey No. 5 14-inch Bench Plane
14" Bailey jack plane, the most versatile bench plane for stock removal and flattening.
See on Amazon βBlock Plane
Small, one-handed, and absurdly versatile. A low-angle block plane is arguably the most-used plane in any shop. It chamfers edges, trims end grain, fine-tunes joints, and fits in your back pocket. If you could only own one plane, many experienced woodworkers would pick this one.
Jack Plane (No. 5)
The jack plane is the workhorse. At about 14 inches long, it handles rough stock removal, initial flattening, and edge jointing on shorter boards. The name comes from "jack of all trades", it does a bit of everything reasonably well. With a cambered blade (slightly curved), it removes material quickly. With a straight blade, it smooths surfaces.
Jointer Plane (No. 7 or 8)
Long planes (22-24 inches) that bridge low spots. If you need to straighten a long edge for a glue joint or flatten a wide panel, a jointer plane is the tool. The length is the key, it cannot dip into hollows the way a shorter plane does, so it naturally takes high spots down to level.
Smoothing Plane (No. 4)
The finishing plane. It takes the thinnest shavings and leaves a glass-smooth surface ready for finish. You use this after flattening, it is the last tool to touch the wood before oil or lacquer goes on.
What Should You Buy First?
For the block plane, look for a low-angle model with an adjustable mouth. For the jack plane, a standard-angle bench plane in the No. 5 size is the most versatile option. You can find good quality options from several manufacturers at various price points.
New vs. Vintage Planes
Vintage planes (primarily from the early to mid 1900s) are excellent tools that often cost less than new premium planes. The trade-off is that you need to tune them up, flatten the sole, lap the chip breaker, and sharpen the blade. If you enjoy the restoration process, vintage planes are a great value. If you want to start planing immediately, a new plane from a reputable maker arrives ready to work.
The Sharpening Reality
Here is the thing nobody tells beginners upfront: a hand plane is only as good as its edge. A dull plane tears wood fibers instead of shaving them cleanly. You will need a sharpening system from day one. Sandpaper on glass is the cheapest entry point. Waterstones give faster results as you progress. Either way, plan to sharpen frequently, a quick touch-up every 20-30 minutes of planing keeps the edge working well.
If you are choosing between hand-cut joints and other methods for your projects, our Wood Joint Selector can help you decide which approach fits your skill level.
Published by the The Woodworking Podcast editorial team. Published March 14, 2026. Updated March 19, 2026.
Editorial responsibility: see Imprint.
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